Shadows and Spires: A History of the Troubles and Belfast Today

The history of Northern Ireland is often painted in two colors—Orange and Green—but the reality is a far more intricate tapestry of history, politics, and identity. To understand the current moment in February 2026, we must look back at the centuries of tension that erupted into the conflict known as 'the Troubles,' and trace the winding, often fragile path to the peace that exists today.

The roots of the conflict stretch back to the 17th-century Plantation of Ulster, where Scottish and English Protestants were settled on land confiscated from native Irish Catholics. This created a demographic fault line that would define the region for centuries. When Ireland was partitioned in 1921, the six counties of Northern Ireland remained within the United Kingdom, created specifically to house a Unionist (Protestant) majority. For decades, the Catholic minority faced systemic discrimination in housing, jobs, and voting rights.

By the late 1960s, inspired by the American Civil Rights movement, Catholic activists began marching for equality. These peaceful protests were frequently met with violence from painful counter-demonstrations and a heavy-handed police response. The tension reached a breaking point in August 1969. Following the 'Battle of the Bogside' in Derry and severe sectarian rioting in Belfast, the British Army was deployed to restore order. Initially welcomed by some Catholics as protectors, the Army soon came to be seen as an occupying force.

The early 1970s saw a rapid descent into chaos. The Provisional Irish Republican Army (IRA) emerged as the dominant force fighting for a united Ireland, launching a campaign of bombings and shootings against security forces and economic targets. Loyalists, wishing to remain British, formed paramilitary groups like the UVF and UDA, targeting the Catholic community. The violence spiraled in 1972, the bloodiest year of the conflict, marked notoriously by 'Bloody Sunday' in Derry, where British paratroopers shot dead unarmed demonstrators. The imposition of Direct Rule from London soon followed.

Through the 1970s and 80s, the violence became a grim routine of tit-for-tat killings, bombings, and political stalemate. The 1981 Hunger Strikes, led by Bobby Sands, galvanized Republican support and paved the way for Sinn Féin's entry into electoral politics. Yet, atrocities continued, such as the Enniskillen Remembrance Day bombing in 1987 and the terrifying campaign of Loyalist assassinations in the early 90s.

Exhaustion, secret talks, and changing geopolitical winds eventually led to the paramilitary ceasefires of 1994. Four years later, under the stewardship of leaders like John Hume and David Trimble, and with US support, the Good Friday Agreement (Belfast Agreement) was signed in April 1998. It created a power-sharing assembly where Unionists and Nationalists would govern together, established cross-border bodies, and mandated police reform.

The road since 1998 has not been smooth. The horrific Omagh bombing just months after the Agreement threatened to derail the peace, but instead solidified the public's resolve against violence. The Assembly has faced multiple suspensions—most notably from 2002 to 2007, and again from 2017 to 2020. The 2016 Brexit vote introduced profound new tensions, effectively placing a trade border in the Irish Sea and unsettling Unionist confidence.

Political gridlock returned in 2022, leaving Northern Ireland without a functioning government for two years. However, history was made in February 2024 when the Executive was restored, and Sinn Féin’s Michelle O’Neill took office as the first-ever Nationalist First Minister, serving alongside the DUP’s Emma Little-Pengelly as Deputy First Minister.

As of February 2026, this power-sharing arrangement has held steady for two years. While the pace of governance is often criticized as slow—described by some commentators this year as 'sclerotic'—the institutions have survived. The political conversation has shifted towards bread-and-butter issues like health funding and infrastructure, though the constitutional question remains the elephant in the room. A notable development in early 2026 is the long-awaited restart of works at Casement Park. After missing out on hosting Euro 2028, the site is finally seeing demolition and enabling works, symbolizing a move from stagnation to delivery.

Touring Belfast in Late June 2026

For a visitor in June 2026, Belfast offers a safe and vibrant window into this complex past. To truly appreciate the history, your itinerary should move beyond the surface.

Start with a Black Taxi Tour of West Belfast. These drivers, often from the communities they tour, provide a visceral narrative as you visit the Shankill (Protestant) and Falls (Catholic) roads. You will see the Peace Walls—massive barriers of concrete and steel that still separate residents more than 25 years after the peace deal. In June, the murals will be freshly painted or touched up ahead of the marching season, offering a current snapshot of political sentiment.

Visit Crumlin Road Gaol. This Victorian prison housed key figures from all sides of the conflict and offers a chilling insight into the penal history of the Troubles. A tunnel links it to the derelict courthouse across the road, a physical representation of the pipeline from arrest to incarceration.

Spend an afternoon at the Ulster Museum. Their 'Troubles and Beyond' exhibition is essential for a balanced, artifact-led understanding of the conflict. In June 2026, you might also catch the 'Ashes to Fashion' exhibition, commemorating the museum's costume collection lost to a firebombing 50 years prior—a poignant reminder of the cultural cost of war.

Walk the City Center. See the Europa Hotel, once known as the 'most bombed hotel in Europe,' now a bustling 4-star establishment. Nearby, the Spirit of Belfast sculpture stands as a modern symbol of resilience. If you head toward West Belfast, you might see the construction cranes over Casement Park, a site now transforming after years of dereliction.

Finally, end your tour at Titanic Belfast and the Maritime Mile. While focused on an earlier era, it contextualizes Belfast’s industrial might, which was the backdrop against which the city’s class and sectarian divisions were forged. Looking back from the slipways, you see a city that has not erased its scars, but is learning to live with them.

Backgrounder Notes

Here are key concepts and historical references from the article, expanded with background information to provide context for the reader.

Historical Foundations & Political Identities

Plantation of Ulster This was the organized colonization of the northern province of Ireland in the 17th century by King James I, who settled English and Scottish Protestants on land confiscated from Gaelic chieftains. It established the demographic divide—Protestant settlers and native Catholic inhabitants—that underpins the region’s modern sectarian conflict.

Unionist vs. Loyalist While both groups want Northern Ireland to remain part of the United Kingdom, "Unionist" typically refers to those pursuing this goal through political means, whereas "Loyalist" often implies a willingness to use paramilitary violence or a working-class identity associated with groups like the UVF or UDA.

Nationalist vs. Republican Both groups favor a united Ireland; however, "Nationalists" (like the SDLP) generally seek this through peaceful, democratic consensus, while "Republicans" (like the IRA or Sinn Féin historically) have traditionally associated with the use of physical force or armed struggle to achieve independence from Britain.

Direct Rule This refers to the administration of Northern Ireland directly from London by the British Government, which was imposed in 1972 after the local Northern Ireland Parliament collapsed due to violence. It remained the status quo until the power-sharing institutions of the Good Friday Agreement were fully established.

Key Events of 'The Troubles'

Battle of the Bogside (1969) A massive, three-day communal riot in the Bogside area of Derry between Catholic residents and the Royal Ulster Constabulary (police). It is widely considered the spark that forced the British government to deploy the Army to the streets of Northern Ireland.

Bloody Sunday (1972) One of the most significant events of the conflict, where British Paratroopers opened fire on a civil rights march in Derry, killing 13 unarmed civilians (a 14th died later). The event catalyzed IRA recruitment and deepened Catholic hostility toward the British Army.

The Hunger Strikes (1981) A protest by imprisoned Irish Republicans seeking "Special Category Status" (political prisoner status) rather than being treated as criminals. Ten prisoners starved themselves to death, including leader Bobby Sands, who was elected as a Member of Parliament during the strike, turning Sinn Féin into a major electoral force.

Omagh Bombing (1998) Carried out by the "Real IRA" (a dissident group opposed to the peace process) just months after the Good Friday Agreement was signed, this car bomb killed 29 people. The universal public outrage it caused effectively isolated those trying to continue the armed campaign.

Modern Politics & Locations

Good Friday Agreement (1998) Also known as the Belfast Agreement, this treaty ended the major violence of the Troubles by establishing a power-sharing government between Unionists and Nationalists. It also enshrined the "consent principle," stating that Northern Ireland’s constitutional status can only change if a majority of its people vote for it.

The Irish Sea Border A trade boundary resulting from the Brexit withdrawal agreement, which keeps Northern Ireland in the EU's single market for goods to avoid a "hard border" on the island of Ireland. This requires checks on goods entering Northern Ireland from the rest of the UK, creating significant anger among Unionists who feel it separates them from Great Britain.

Casement Park A Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) stadium in West Belfast that lay derelict for over a decade due to funding disputes and planning objections. Its redevelopment is politically symbolic, representing major investment in a nationalist area, though it became controversial when delays caused the city to lose its bid to host Euro 2028 matches.

Shankill and Falls Roads These two parallel roads in West Belfast serve as the heartlands of their respective communities; the Shankill is staunchly British/Loyalist, while the Falls is deeply Irish/Republican. Despite their proximity, they remain separated by "Peace Walls" and have distinct cultural identities visible in their murals and flags.

Marching Season Refers to the summer months, specifically culminating on the "Twelfth of July," when Protestant orders (such as the Orange Order) parade to celebrate the victory of King William of Orange over Catholic King James II in 1690. These parades have historically been flashpoints for sectarian tension when routes pass near Catholic neighborhoods.